Orlando Family dining critic Michael Lit digs into Chef Brandon McGlamery’s latest creation.

Peppered Prime Rib

Continuing their successes with Winter Park’s Luma and Prato, Chef Brandon McGlamery and operations guru Tim Noelke have brought their magic to Maitland with Luke’s Kitchen and Bar. Also boasting Derek Perez (formerly of Luma) as the executive chef, the eatery offers a culinary vision of American classics. The building itself has previously hosted many other restaurants, but it’s been thoroughly reinvented with wood-beamed décor, warm colors, an awesome outside patio and an exhibition kitchen that I couldn’t stop peering at.

Young restaurants tend to need to work out the kinks, but Luke’s feels like it has been there for years. Our server was very nice and explained some of their craft cocktails. My wife ordered the Planter’s Punch ($12), which came in a small glass but packed quite a “punch.” I had the Jolly Ox ($11), featuring Old Forester bourbon, tarragon-fused Boomsma, maraschino and lemon. It was different and delicious. The tarragon brought out a nice earthy tone to the whiskey, while the maraschino added sweetness.

Lobster Louie

For starters, we ordered the French Onion Soup ($13), served in a large crock with beautifully melted gruyere cheese on top. The crostini underneath was hearty, and there were plenty of onions in the broth. It was wonderful. We also had the Fried Oysters ($16) with banana pepper remoulade, but it was a tough choice between those and something from the raw bar. (We’ll go that route next time.) The oysters were large and fried perfectly, but for the price, I felt they could have given us a dozen instead of just eight. We also went with the Lobster Louie ($14) with thinly sliced jalapeño and radish, which was served ceviche style in three scallop shells on pebbled ice. It was the standout star of the evening for both of us.

I should note that Noelke and team certainly trained their server staff well. Our server’s attention to detail was off the charts, including presenting the appropriate silverware for our entrée choices. My wife’s Filet Mignon ($39), which came with creamed spinach and fingerling potatoes with crispy onions on top, was a rustic but precise presentation. The filet was cooked how she liked it, and she loved the way they combined the creamed spinach and fingerlings to make one side.

I ordered the Peppered Prime Rib ($30) with heirloom carrots and béarnaise. This American classic hit all notes: a “man pretty” presentation, with sautéed carrots and pearl onions atop the perfectly roasted prime rib. The béarnaise was spooned on the fatty tail of the meat, with the au jus in a ramekin. The meat was perfectly roasted, and the carrots and onions were a great accent that could stand alone as a side dish. I did have two quibbles, though. First, the au jus wasn’t rich enough for my taste. Second, I would have preferred the béarnaise in a ramekin like the au jus. Regardless, both entrees were a wonderful take on American classics.

With four desserts to choose from, we had another hard decision. My wife went with the Cookie Skillet ($10), which was by far the best that I ever have eaten. You cannot go wrong with a baked cookie and ice cream. I’m not sure why this one was so delicious or what their secret is, so I will have to go back to order it again and try to figure it out.

I was indecisive about whether I wanted the Key Lime Tart or the Dulce de Leche Cake. I am not a huge cake fan, so I decided to ask our server. Once she explained the latter ($8), I knew that was my choice. It was served with the cake sitting in a bowl of what was either banana cream or foam. It didn’t truly represent a cake at all, so the menu did not accurately describe the dish—I might not have ordered it if I just thought it was cake. Instead, it was something much more interesting, rich and decadent. It was like a dulce de leche cake dough not done all the way, so when you cut into it, the center came oozing out like sweet lava. Matched with the banana, this was a richly composed, out-of-the-box dessert.

McGlamery and his team hit all the right marks on their new adventure here in Maitland. The building is chic and inviting. The Rollins College crowd has flocked to Luke’s, giving it a young and lively feel. The locals are becoming regulars, and Luke’s is now a mainstay along the growing 17-92 stretch. Also worth noting are their sandwiches, delicious examples of which we saw being delivered to other tables. We will be back for sure with the kids to try some of those— it’s all I’ve been thinking about since we left.

An Orlando resident for more than 25 years, Michael Lit is the executive chef for Central Florida Regional Hospital and also has extensive experience in both casual and fine dining.

Luke’s Kitchen and Bar
Maitland | (407) 674-2400

This article originally appeared in Orlando Family Magazine’s August 2017 issue.