Dining critic Michael Lit sizes up Christner’s Prime Steak & Lobster

I’ll admit to some confusion when Orlando Family asked me to review Christner’s Prime Steak & Lobster. After all, the restaurant’s location was the same— and the name very similar—to Del Frisco’s Prime Steak & Lobster, which had been a cornerstone of the Lee Road dining/shopping area for decades. So before making reservations, I did a little sleuthing.

As it turned out, Orlando’s Del Frisco existed only because its founders, Russ and Carole Christner, were friends with the founder of the original Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House in Dallas. When the Christners decided to open an Orlando eatery, they got special permission to use the Del Frisco’s name for 20 years. Although there was a renewal option after the initial period, Lone Star Steak House purchased the original Del Frisco’s during the intervening years and, having turned Del Frisco’s into a very successful high-end chain, was uninterested in continuing to allow an unofficial eatery to use the brand.

Instead, a compromise was struck wherein our Del Frisco’s agreed to change its name to Christner’s but could continue using the recipes and menus granted to them in the original agreement.

Christner’s possesses a certain old-school charm evocative of the Mad Men era, both in terms of décor (including a piano bar) and menu items. In a nod to that vibe, my wife Toni and I started with two Four Roses bourbon Manhattans ($16), straight up. They came quickly and were quite delicious.

Our server was knowledgeable about all facets of the menu and gave some good pairings and recommendations. As a starter, Toni ordered the Fried Calamari Shanghai Style ($18), which came tossed in a sweet Thai chili sauce. The calamari were plump tubes, and the crisp breading held the sauce really well. It was a large portion, but we justified eating it all.

I ordered the Fried Oysters ($17), which was another large portion. The oysters were fat, and again, an enjoyably crispy crust gave the dish nice texture. However, we did find ourselves dipping the oysters in the Shanghai sauce more than the cocktail sauce.

I should note that we had plenty to gaze at while waiting for our main course. Behind us, a maestro was tickling the ivories at the piano bar. Two tables over, a magician was entertaining children with tricks up his sleeve. We hoped he would stop by our table for a little magic time, but I guess our age opted us out of the fun. Instead, we made our own magic with a second round of Manhattans.

The entrees came piping hot and glistening in the dim, romantic light. Toni’s 16-ounce Prime Strip ($49) was cooked to perfection and seasoned perfectly. Side dishes are a la carte here, and she got a loaded Baked Potato ($10). She was a bit disappointed, though, because it only came with butter and scallions but had been described as coming with all the accompaniments on the side. The server was gone before I could grab his attention, but after taking a bite, Toni said the potato was great as it was.

I ordered the 16-ounce Prime Ribeye ($48), and it was as delicious as I hoped it would be. Christner’s definitely knows how to cook a proper steak. The other sides we ordered were the Asparagus ($13), which was al dente as I like it and seasoned with just a bit of salt and pepper, and Sautéed Mushrooms ($11) to go with the steaks. I also got the Chateau Potatoes ($12), which were sliced and fried with sautéed mushrooms and onions. I thought it was a nice presentation fanned out and made to look like a starchy flower with the mushrooms and onions in the center. It was quite good, but I would have liked sour cream or a sauce to dip the potato in.

Dessert was spot on. Toni ordered the N.Y Cheesecake ($8) with fresh berries on top. This cheesecake was so creamy, and the portion was so substantial that I finally got to try a nice helping of Toni’s dessert, which usually doesn’t happen because she won’t share. I got the Chocolate Cake ($8). The description doesn’t do it justice, as the slice was large enough for two to three people. The chocolate frosting was dense and rich, and the cake was moist. I usually do not get cakes for dessert, but I saw one walk by and easily made my choice.

We ended the night walking away with leftovers from each course. Christner’s is on the high end of the pricing scale for steakhouses, but it was a memorable evening and our food was definitely enjoyable.

Christner’s Prime Steak & Lobster
Orlando (Lee Road)
(407) 645-4443

An Orlando resident for more than 25 years, Michael Lit is the executive chef for Central Florida Regional Hospital and also has extensive experience in both casual and fine dining.