OFM dining critic Michael Lit’s take on Ivanhoe Village’s NOVA Scratch Kitchen.

NOVA’s Shrimp & Saffron Fettuccine

NOVA’s name is shorthand for the restaurant’s location at the corner of North Orange and Virginia, which also happens to be one of Orlando’s more beautiful locations. It sits across the street from Lake Ivanhoe in a spot formerly occupied by two different lower-end (but tasty) restaurants. Founder Mark Stillman quickly realized that this spot coupled with the resurgence of Ivanhoe Row and its trendy dining and bar concepts would bring in the clientele he needed for success.

Stillman brought the concept to fruition with the help of managing partner Westley Lynn and executive chef Valintinus Domingo. They offer locally sourced and globally influenced American fare along with creative handcrafted cocktails, boutique wines and regional beers. The restaurant is beautiful, comfy and chic. It features open-concept dining and is highlighted by a large outdoor space offering great sunsets over Lake Ivanhoe.

My wife Toni and I started the experience with two of the restaurant’s signature cocktails. I had the NOVA Manhattan ($12), blending Kinahan’s Irish whiskey, Dolin Rouge vermouth and house bitters. I’m a fan of Irish whiskey, and this version was as smooth as Lake Ivanhoe’s water and hit the spot on a humid Orlando evening. Toni had the NOVA Refresher ($12), consisting of Tincup American whiskey, watermelon puree and fresh squeezed lime. The watermelon puree hit the whiskey with sweetness but leveled out with the fresh-squeezed lime. It was definitely an interesting combination.

Next, we dove into the Deconstructed Tuna Tostadas ($14). The appetizer is certainly good for a group and centers around rich and meaty cumin-dusted ahi. Fruity house-made guacamole and crisp naan chips came on the side. It was a fun and interactive way to start the dining experience. Another shareable starter is the simple Cheese and Crackers ($12) combination with house-made Boursin-style goat cheese, jalapeño peach jelly and flatbread. The garlicky, herbed soft cheese and the peppery jam were a great match.

We also tried the Shrimp Tacos ($11), which were packed tight with Napa cabbage, guacamole puree and Fresno chili sauce. I loved how the latter gave an earthy balance to the sweetness of the shrimp. For our last starter, we got the 1409 Wings ($12). With orange habanero barbecue sauce, pickled carrots and avocado-lime dipping sauce, the wings were paired with quite interesting, nontraditional flavors. Perhaps unsurprisingly, those components worked nicely together. I’ll be back for a double order for lunch.

For an entrée, I ordered the Halibut ($28) with savory herb crust, brandy-braised Cipollini onions, baby zucchini and sunburst yellow squash with a lemon-caper pan sauce. The crust’s perfect crispness paired nicely with the delicate fish, and the brandied onions pushed it over the mark. It was an exquisite example of bold yet delicate pairings.

My wife ordered the Shrimp and Saffron Fettuccine ($26) with heirloom cherry tomatoes, oyster mushrooms, house-made saffron fettuccine and herb butter sauce. We could tell that they took great care in fresh making the saffron pasta, as it was tender and brought me back to my days at Primo. The herb butter and shrimp tangled well with the fettucine for an all-around delicious entrée.

We also ordered the All Natural Pork Chop ($23), which consisted of a Southeastern Family Farms bone-in pork chop, Carolina barbecue glaze, three-cheese baked mac-and-cheese, and bacon-roasted Brussels sprouts. The barbecue glaze really turned me on to ordering this dish, but the star was the bacon and roasted Brussels sprouts in duck fat, which you can order on the sides menu as well. The pork was tender and the mac-and-cheese had a wonderful creaminess to it.

The dessert menu looked intriguing. Each of us wanted something with chocolate, so I ordered the Chocolate Crème Brûlée ($10), because there’s always room for dessert, right? A twist on the traditional version, this dish was the perfect ending to a star-studded menu lineup. The sugar was caramelized to perfection and the custard had that punch of cocoa to it without overpowering the delicateness of the custard.

My wife got the Chocolate Buttercream Cake ($10), which was so decadent that I needed some milk or a great cup of coffee to wash it down. But instead, Toni went with one more Signature NOVA Refresher. She didn’t have any trouble finishing, either.

Upon leaving, we gazed over Lake Ivanhoe and just stared for a moment, not wanting this evening to end. It’s such a beautiful area with a bustling nightlife. The Mills 50/Ivanhoe Village neighborhood is a wonderful place to find the true heart of Orlando. I can see why NOVA has already caught the eyes of the Orlando foodie scene. You just can’t pass up the beautiful location, cool bars to visit, and NOVA’s chic building, outside dining and fantastic food.

An Orlando resident for more than 25 years, Michael Lit is the executive chef for Central Florida Regional Hospital and also has extensive experience in both casual and fine dining.

NOVA Scratch Kitchen
Orlando (Ivanhoe Village) | (407) 745-4080